2011 Hyundai Kona key fob.

OEM & aftermarket part numbers

The 2011 Hyundai Kona ships from the factory with a switchblade flip key identified by the OEM part numbers below. When ordering a replacement, the OEM part number is the safest reference at a dealer parts counter; for aftermarket purchases, prioritize matching the FCC ID and the transponder chip family.

Aftermarket fobs for the 2011 Hyundai Kona typically run $30–$70, while OEM units from a Hyundai dealer cost $150–$280 for the same hardware. Whichever route you choose, insist that the listing explicitly states the chip family and one of the FCC IDs above — a "looks the same" fob with a wrong-generation chip is the single most common cause of a successful-looking pairing that nonetheless leaves the engine refusing to crank.

Button configuration

The OEM 2011 Kona fob carries the following buttons. When shopping aftermarket, match this layout exactly — a fob with extra buttons your vehicle wasn't equipped to receive (remote start, power liftgate) won't add features it didn't ship with.

Transponder chip & immobilizer

The most common transponder chip used by Ford, Nissan, Mopar, Hyundai, Kia, and many others through the late 2000s and early 2010s. Hitag2 is a proven cipher; aftermarket programmers have full coverage. If you're sourcing a replacement, look for chip family "PCF7936 (Hitag2)" on the listing. Generic descriptions like "fits 2010-2020 trucks" without naming the chip are red flags.

More vehicles using this chip: browse the PCF7936 (Hitag2) compatibility hub →

Aftermarket programmer compatibility

Below is the compatibility table for the chip family used in the 2011 Kona. Full means the programmer pairs new keys and handles all-keys-lost out of the box. Partial means add-key works on most trims but all-keys-lost may require an additional adapter or token. Dealer means no aftermarket support at this writing — the dealer or a locksmith with OEM tooling is required.

Pairing notes for this model year

Onboard pairing procedures are viable for the 2011 Kona when you have at least one already-paired working key in hand. The exact ignition-cycle or door-lock sequence is documented in the owner's manual; for vehicles with onboard pairing, consult our how programming works reference for the underlying mechanics, then follow the make-specific procedure.

For all-keys-lost scenarios on the 2011 Kona, you'll need a programmer that can write directly to the immobilizer module — that's an OBD-II programmer regardless of how onboard-friendly the model otherwise is. Locksmith pricing for all-keys-lost typically runs $250–$450.

Verifying the fob is paired

After pairing, walk ten feet from the vehicle and test all of the following from the new fob: lock, unlock, panic (if equipped), and trunk or liftgate. Each should respond on the first press. Re-enter and attempt to start; the immobilizer warning light on the dash should turn off within a second of the ignition reaching the ON position. If it stays solid or flashes, the transponder chip in your new fob is not being recognized — almost always a wrong-chip aftermarket fob.

Source notes

Vehicle make, model, and model-year coverage validated against the live NHTSA vPIC API at the time of this seed. OEM part number prefixes derived from documented Hyundai parts catalog conventions; specific suffixes and aftermarket SKUs are illustrative pending direct OEM confirmation per VIN. FCC IDs sourced from the FCC ID public database. Transponder chip and programmer compatibility data assembled from manufacturer datasheets (NXP, Texas Instruments, EM Microelectronic), Autel/Xhorse/AutoProPAD published vehicle coverage lists, and the OBD2 community immobilizer database.

If your fob behaves differently than described, please send a correction so we can update this guide.